A Fountain called Carlotta

Every so often I come across a curiosity. Thus, as I was checking the times of the monthly strike, I stumbled upon an article which spoke of Garbatella. I live close by. I read how the inhabitants of the area were delighted that the Fontana Della Carlotta was flowing again. A tube in her innards had broken and interrupted her flow.

Fontana Della Carlotta? I was puzzled. I'd never heard of it yet ,from what I read, it was an iconic symbol of Old Garbatella.

I went looking for it. It was as good as any an opportunity for a walk. I walked up my street across the Cristoforo Colombo where street jugglers entertained jaded drivers at the traffic lights and into Garbatella.

At the first roundabout I took a right, down the road that led towards the Circonvallazione Ostiense, Garbatella's main shopping street. On the left side I saw the characteristic low slung buildings and plant filled courtyards of Old Garbatella, on my other side were taller more  recent additions to the district.
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 I turned left into Via Giovanni di Capistrano, a narrow street with a graffitied orange wall down one side.

 I was entering the heartland of Roma FC worship. High on one building was a red and orange plaque with the dark Roma wolf on it. Mention you favour Lazio FC here and you might not get out alive!

I didn't have to go far. The narrow road opened out onto a piazza. A sweeping staircase led down to it. It wasn't quite the Spanish Steps but for the inhabitants of the area it might as well be. This was the Scala degli Innamorati, the lovers' steps. There weren't any lovers now just a group of teenaged girls killing the tedium of a Sunday afternoon. On the piazza itself next to the steps stood a pillar, or was it a plinth? Atop it was a type of urn, lower down the pillar was a fountain. Rather small and unassuming, this was the Fontana Della Carlotta.

 A woman's head with long hair ( allegedly a dark-skinned woman) was carved into the side of a pillar. The spout from which ran the water, an ugly piece of rusting metal, jutted out of her mouth. The water ran into a small travertine basin.

In times past, presumably when there were less street lights, would-be couples would gather around her or sit on the steps, engaged in various steps of courtship.

 Over the years Carlotta has suffered her fair share of vandalism, her coiffe isn't quite what it once was, she's been stilled on more than one occasion but she is still going, a plucky lady in a tough city.

Drinking the water she pours is said to bring good luck - three sips, three swallows, make a wish and it'll come true.

A plaque affixed to a wall states: With the water of beautiful Carlotta saved from the damage caused by the time that passes, the history of Garbatella starts to flow again. For the inhabiatants the Carlotta is a big deal.

So who was Carlotta? The story goes that she was a beautiful, courteous (garbata) woman who would greet travellers who passed through the area when it was still part of the countryside surrounding Rome. The area became known as Garbatella as a tribute to this amiable woman.  It has also been said that while this pleasant hostess existed, her name was actually Maria.

Whatever the truth to the story may be, the Fontana della Carlotta exerts attention today. When she is silent the people of Garbatella worry.

It was time to say goodbye to the old girl so I climbed up the steps. At the top were a pair of urns outside some imposing large buildings: more of the famed 'Case Popolare' that make up old Garbatella. And, as if I needed a reminder of how staunchly Roman this area is, I pass a building with a large plaque dedicated to the Roman actor Alberto Sordi. If it wasn't Totti  the recipient of wide spread adoration, it was Sordi.



Alberto Sordi