A Roman jewel

It was Jayne's first trip to Rome. She was excited. The plane dropped below the clouds and she saw the eternal city for the first time. 
A large oval stone structure drew her attention, "What's that? Is it a football stadium?"
Her boyfriend leant over to peer through the window, "No, it's the colosseum."
"What's that?"

Most people have heard of the amphitheatrum Flavium. It was built under the Emperor Vespasian, founder of the Flavian dynasty. Today, he tends to be associated with the street urinals which are named after him, Vespasienne in French and Vespasiano in Italian. But his greatest oeuvre was this massive amphitheatre.

It was completed in 80AD, a year after his death. His son, the Emperor Titus, inaugurated the construction with 100 days of games. These included gladiatorial combats and wild animal fights. It could seat up to 55,000 spectators.

The original structure had three tiers of arched entrances - a total of around 80 supported by semi-circular columns. On each level the columns belonged to a different order: Doric at the bottom, then Ionic and topped by Corinthian.( If you want a description of the differences between the orders go to : http://www.ancient.eu/column/).  The amphitheatre was built of granite and tufa faced with travertine.

It later became known as the Colosseum, possibly because of the giant statue of Nero which once stood nearby. It was a symbol of the power and splendour of Imperial Rome.

By the 6th century, there were no more gladiatorial combats or large public performances. However it was still used as a bull ring.

Over the centuries the Colosseum has been shaken by a number of earthquakes, the most damaging of which occurred in1349. It caused the southern side to collapse.  

Eventually, the once-great Colosseum was abandoned and fell into decline. It was used as a quarry. Its stones went into building projects for the nearby St John the Lateran, St. Peter's as well as for defence fortifications along the Tiber.

Nowadays, what remains of this magnificent building, only a glimpse of what it once must have been, is a star attraction for millions of tourists.  It truly is formidable. It rises to a height of 48,5 metres and towers over visitors as they approach the entrance.

 I decided to swing by to see the results of the recently finished facade clean up. The first stage of a very expensive - 25million euros - restoration project funded by, Diego Della Valle, the owner of the luxury leather goods brand, Tod's.

The 31 remaining arches had been cleaned and the moss and algae growing out of the cracks had been brushed away. I had read that in certain lights the delicately brushed travertine glowed a slight pink. In the harsh afternoon light of a hot July day the pink patina was barely visible.

Pink?

I had come out of the metro A-line at the stop of San Giovanni rather than the more usual B-line stop of Colosseo, so I approached the structure down the road which connects the Basilica of San Giovanni and the Colosseum, Via San Giovanni in Laterano. It's a narrow road, with narrow uneven pavements. At the height of the Basilica of San Clemente it joins up with this years pilgrim trail. 

In the distance, deceivingly further than I had thought at first glance, stood the Colosseum. The sun was hot, I changed sides to walk in the shade.

After 10 minutes, I passed the ruins of the gladiators' changing rooms. There was a Iot to see but no explanatory notices. I could but guess. I could see the entrance to a tunnel, some of the changing rooms, corridors... The whole area was over-grown with weeds, forgotten, here on the other side of the road from the Colosseum it had once serviced. The gladiators would have prepared themselves in this area then run down underground passages and out into the arena to face another gladiator, a tiger, and please the awaiting crowds. This was an area that needed a makeover too.

One of the long green trams rattled past and a bus headed up the hill which held the remains of Nero's golden palace. The road in front of the Colosseum, Via dei Fori Imperiali, has been closed to almost all traffic. On weekdays buses and taxis run down it. But at weekends it is open only to pedestrians and cyclists.

I crossed and followed the pavement down to the base of the Colosseum.  I was near the damaged southern side which has been shored up by bricks. 

The Southern wall which was damaged by an earthquake

I walked around the base, I peered under the arches and tried to catch a glimpse of the central part of the Colosseum. 

When I first came to Rome the Colosseum was open to all. In fact, a typical Roman expression goes:  "Abiti mica al Colosseo",  said when someone leaves a door open. There were no doors to close at the Colosseum. The British equivalent would be "Were you raised in a barn?"

Back then, It was a notorious spot for night time encounters of all sorts. Today the lower arches are closed by huge iron railings and all I could see were queues of tourists.  These were quickly explained as I noticed I was near the group entrance, a little further on was the entrance for individuals. I paused to check the price: 12 euros for an adult for the Colosseum and the Palatine hill. I would return.

A police car patrols, tourists watch down from the second tier.

I glanced up towards the Esquiline hill and an elegant building (palazzo) perched on it. I imagined the incomparable and unique view from its windows. Then wondered if it was one of the buildings involved in the current fixed low rent scandal.

 I headed in the direction of the Arch of Constantine. A bride, train in hand, and her groom overtook me,  followed by three garishly-red clad bridesmaids and a photographer with tripod. They were getting that all-important wedding day shot with Colosseum backdrop.

The triumphal arch of Constantine.

The restoration work isn't finished, the second phase will involve building a new visitors' centre in addition to cleaning and securing several underground vaults and passages. 

In the future, and provided the 15 metre deep foundations can hold it, the floor would be replaced with one that could support modern day entertainment. The Minister for Culture, Dario Franceschini has said events of the 'highest quality' would be staged at the Colosseum.