Rome by the sea

The beach at Santa Marinella

The weather in Rome is great. Hot summers, mild autumns, mild winters except for the few days when the temperature dips below 5°C and everyone starts muttering about how cold it is, and warm springs which are a delight with birds singing and twittering and cherry blossoms all over the city bursting into colour.

However, statistically speaking, more rain falls on Rome than it does on London, albeit in heavy showers of monsoon-like intensity. Motorcyclists get off their rides and shelter beneath the ancient arches of the city walls, the larger roads that move traffic in and out of the city become rivers and the hapless people stuck waiting for public transport in such downpours are likely to be covered by the rising spray from the passing vehicles.

There are some spectacular storms - palms bent by the force of the wind as if they were mere saplings, Armageddon up in the skies of such intensity that one could believe in the ancient Greek gods throwing bolts of lightning in anger.

Summer is approaching and the temperature is rising. By July the temperature average will be in its thirties and humidity is throughout the summer remains high. Work comes to a pause at the end of July to make way for five weeks rest.

I'm dreaming of heading off to the beach.That is one of the big advantages of Rome: its proximity to the sea.  Even if, it must be said,  the Lazio coast is far from one of the cleanest in Italy and covered in the dreaded 'stablimenti' - places which will charge anything from 10 euros to a small fortune to rent out sun-loungers, parasols and deck chairs.

To be fair some of them can be quite classy joints, that is if you want your sunbathing experience alongside the possibility of a restaurant-quality lunch, Martini cocktail or a swimming-pool so as to avoid touching the polluted waters. This last is worth bearing in mind if you're at Ostia or Fiumicino where the mouth of the Tiber disgorges all manner of vile refuse for people to swim in. 

It could be worse, it could be Naples. A recent medical report revealed that the only people who can safely swim in the Bay of Naples are Neapolitans who have a natural resistance to the various horrors that live and thrive in the waters.

I'm not so keen on the whole beach resort experience all'Italiana, where at the height of the season the sun-loungers are parked so close together that a mere swivel might result in landing among a family or in demolishing a carefully built sand castle.

I prefer quiet places with as few people as possible - a challenge in August. Actually, non-existent. I avoid Ostia, too hot, too crowded, too like Rome-by-the-sea.

My first experience of the Lazio coast was pleasant. I headed down the coast in the direction of Naples and found a gem: Sperlonga. Up on a rock sit attractive, white washed houses vaguely reminiscent of a Greek seaside village on one of the islands. Little alleyways hide tasteful and tasty Trattorias for lunch.

 Tiberius' grotto is at the edge of a crescent shaped beach, with a museum on the main road above it. The beach is beautiful white sand slowly eroding into the sea, gradually disappearing - over the years the prices have shot up making it more exclusive. The water is clean, transparent full of fish enticingly swimming around the swimmers.

On my first visit, by train to Fondi then by bus to Sperlonga, I was enchanted. I loved wandering the little alleys in the town followed by a swim in cool, clear waters while to my right stood a fortress, the Torre Truglia.

A beach resort at Santa Marinella on the Capo Linaro

Further North towards Civitavecchia , barely 50 minutes by car from Rome, along the motorway and the Via Aurelia which neatly bissects it, is the 7 kilometre long town of Santa Marinella. 

Santa Marinella has a castle, and a small and attractive centre with the expected over-priced restaurants. 

The main beach is almost opposite the station: a sandy crescent covered in different coloured parasols representing the different 'stablimenti'. But it isn't cheap - a tenner for the parasol and a tenner for the sun-lounger. 

The sand is brought in each year (where from?) as the natural coast is rocky. So for  a more genuine, if slightly uncomfortable experience head over the Cape towards the Capo Linaro - there are free pebble beaches and  rocky promontories.

The water's clean and if there isn't any wind, very clear. On a windy day sand and algae mix to form an impenetrable cloud. Swimming can be a challenge as the breakers break over your head and deliver mouthfuls or nose-fulls of salty brine. The waves are such that this is known as the surfing Gold Coast of Lazio.

Just one step closer to Rome, Santa Severa, hosts surfing competitions at its famous Banzai Beach.

A friend from my last visit to Santa Marinella